Road trip on the E6 – Kirkenes (Norway) to Utsjoki (Finland)

posted in: Europe, Norway | 13

We love road tripping and it’s one of our favourite ways to explore new places, to check out local cultures, taste new food, learn new languages and of course, to empty our bank accounts as we pay for lots of fuel. In Europe there are lots of road trips to be had and most people can create one very easily. Some road trips we do involve going along some of the longest roads in Europe and in this post we be telling you the best parts of the E6 from Kirkenes at the top of Norway to Utsjoki on the Finnish/Norway border and hopefully very soon we will bring you more exciting places to check out on the rest of the route.

The route from Kirkenes to Utsjoki (map: Google (C) ) 

The E6 (European Route 6) is the main north to south road through Norway and continues on through to Southern Sweden. It is 2,084km (1,295 miles) long and is one of the harshest main roads to drive along in the winter months, especially within the Arctic Circle.

We started the E6 where it starts/finishes (depending how you see it) just east of the centre of Kirkenes which lies on the shores of the Arctic Ocean. This is a small fishing town which has been totally rebuilt after the Second World War when the Nazi Germans burnt down the whole town. Only thirteen houses remain of that era. As a visitor to the area, there is not much to do. The highlight is the church which has stood here since the 1850s but was rebuilt after the war and stands on a small hill overlooking the centre. The town of Kirkenes is actually named after the church (Kirkenes means ‘Church Headland’). We took a walk around the area and probably checked out the centre and the seafront in around thirty minutes (this would have been quicker if it wasn’t for lots of ice on the ground). The views of the seafront is worth checking out, seeing the beautiful rugged coastline with small hills surrounding the harbour. Apart from that we moved on out of town.

The start/finish of the E6 in Kirkenes – looks very dramatic
The church in Kirkenes
Main shopping street in Kirkenes
Checking out the colourful houses outside central Kirkenes
A touristy signpost found whilst walking around the suburbs 
An icy Arctic Ocean in Kirkenes 
A beautiful view to the north from Kirkenes 

One fascinating fact about this part of Norway is the time zone. Kirkenes is east of Finland (and of course, Istanbul, Saint Petersburg, Kiev) and is ONE hour behind Finland as the region kept the same time as the rest of Norway. Traveling west and entering Finland, we would jumped an hour. Coming towards Kirkenes from Finland and we would lose an hour. Also going into Russia nearby (about 14km away), in the summer months we would lose an hour but in the winter we would lose two hours. This is a crazy part of the world when it comes to timekeeping.  

Monument to commemorate the mothers of World War II in Kirkenes 

To the south-east of the town (slightly of the E6 but signposted in both Norwegian/Russian) is the border checkpoint. We managed to park up on the right hand side before the actual checkpoint area which is on the E105 route and had a great view of the lake. However no walking to the border is allowed and cars vehicles can’t go through unless visitors have a visa (which can’t be brought at the control point). Just before we got back in the car, we noticed a tiny souvenir cabin on the other side of the road where Norwegian/Russian products can be brought and is owned by a man who moved here from Oslo so he could ‘just get away from it all’. He has got that right and we landed up talking to him for around forty minutes talking about the E6, Russia, Norwegian politics and the breakup of relationship between Britain and the European Union and how happy he was to see us (the Brits) join his brothers (Norway, Iceland, Switzerland and Liechtenstein as they are not part of the European Union).

Which city shall we travel to from the border check point? 
Shall we go to Russia? Here’s the checkpoint
Beautiful winter sun overlooking the lake
The souvenir shop man at the border checkpoint

Back on the road and heading west passing the airport (which is on military land so no taking photos around this area, it’s clearly signposted), the road passes beautiful sloping hills but the land can be barren. Villages alongside the fjords can be seen and checked out whilst reindeer walk and look for food by the road side. To be honest the road itself isn’t a problem to drive along but it’s the concentration which is needed. Reindeer and moose can jump out at any second, there could be huge chunks of snow blowing onto the windscreen, snow ploughs whizzing down the road and lots of ice can be on the road surface during the cold months.

Just watch out for those reindeers! 

After 82km, there is a turning to the right signposted Bugøynes which is another 20km along the coastal road. Here is a beautiful fishing village where views overlooking it must be had before driving down to centre and checking out it’s wooden church. There is a shop and a restaurant here serving King Crab which has been given rave reviews on the internet but it was closed so no crab for us. The brown sandy beaches is a bonus and it’s here in the winter months crazy people from the south known as Finnish folks come here to get naked and jump in the sea.

Bugøynes Church
Reindeer near Bugøynes

Back on the E6 and heading around the south/western end of the Varangerfjord, the road gets very exciting as there is a major roundabout junction in Varangerbotn to manage. This happens 118km after the last roundabout/major junction so you can imagine what sort of distances we were driving before seeing a road sign, changing gears in the car or having to turn our heads left to right to look for oncoming traffic (which there was none). This is a major junction with the E75 (which goes towards Vardø) but also there is a gas station (which sells nice sausages to go), an Italian restaurant (which is reasonably priced) and a museum of the local area.

17km to the west (the E6/E75 share this bit of road all the way to Utsjoki in Finland), is Tana Bru (which is English means Bridge on Tana river). To be honest in this major road junction with a population of around 600, bugger all happens here apart from getting some gas, getting some sleep in a hotel, checking out the souvenir store and buying expensive beer from the supermarket. Otherwise just keep driving…….

Tana Bru
Another exciting road junction at Tana Bru

The E6/E75 runs alongside the northern shores of the Tana river and there is not much to see unless stopping off for those beautiful photos of the river itself. The next major junction is where the E6 and E75 splits just north of Utsjoki. The E6 carries on westwards towards Alta and Narvik and this is where we leave the road for now. Head south on the E75 and across the bridge into the small town of Utsjoki where the Norway-Finland border meets which means lots of cheaper food, gas and beer are to be had.

The bridge into Finland  
Utsjoki Finland Border Sign
 Claire at the Norway/Finland border
It’s time to explore Finland

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13 Responses

  1. Uh wow, quite brave to travel on such icy roads :-O The pictures are marvelous, thanks for sharing!

  2. There looks to be some really cool (literally) places to visit on this trip. I cannot believe the border to Russia looks as innocuous as that. I wonder what happens if you try to just leg it across lol?
    Anne recently posted…Is The Dreamliner Really That Dreamy?

  3. The snow and ice landscape is so different…very modest, yet stunning. The towns seem largely quiet and population seems low…its like having the entire place to yourself. A wonderful drive, I’m sure.

  4. I, too, love a good road trip. The best part is being able to stop whenever you want, to explore whatever you see that is interesting. You really highlighted some great things — the churches and towns, the reindeer, the floating ice (which by the way, made me shiver just looking at it!) and so much more. Have you ever been in the spring or summer? I think that might be even prettier!
    Tami recently posted…Definitely Montmartre! (A Paris neighborhood worth seeing)

  5. I love road trips. Driving around a foreign country gives you plenty of freedom to stop wherever you choose. A driving trip in Scandinavia looks fabulous.

  6. Wow. That sounds like an amazing road trip. Which car did you drive? The reindeer look adorable. Are they friendly?

  7. It looks like a fanastic road trip. Loved your pictures, especially the partly frozen Arctic Ocean. And yes, varying timezones while traveling is funny and amazing at the same time!
    Reshma Narasing recently posted…Valley of Flowers – A Tale of An Adventurous Trek To The Paradise of Flowers

  8. Having recently visited Finland, how I wish I was on this road trip !! You took me back to those white landscapes. Ah! The frozen water, snow covered surroundings, reindeer …
    Bugøynes looks so beautiful.
    I really liked those ice sculptures in Tana Bru. Are they made by passersby? 🙂 You certainly had fun !
    Nisha recently posted…Comment on Snow mobiling – pure adrenalin rush by Jennifer

  9. I haven’t done a lot of road trips, but I love the idea of being able to stop wherever and explore, take photos, etc. So surprising that they don’t snowplow the main shopping street of Kirkenes. Loved going along with you through your photos.

  10. Megan Jerrard

    Sounds like a really interesting part of the world to road trip through – definitely have to stay on top of that timekeeping! Reminds me of a street in Australia where one side of the street is in NSW, and the other side is in QLD – NSW goes onto daylight savings time but QLD doesnt lol so one side of the street ends up closing shops an hour early!

    Definitely watch out for those reindeer and icy conditions while driving, but seems like there are so many cool attractions along the way! Beautiful surroundings 🙂

  11. Kirkeneses sounds like some place in Greece 🙂

  12. What an awesome itinerary for a road trip, really fascinating all these frozen landscapes. Loved the beach of Bugøynes and the reindeer. I always love a road trip and I would love to challenge myself on these icy roads. Thanks for sharing your experience!
    Julien Mordret recently posted…Preparing a Backpacking Trip: Peace of Mind Without Sacrificing Freedom

  13. Norway is my dream destination and you took me on a virtual road trip. Thanks. Beautiful pictures. All snowy and that bridge looks so stunning. 🙂

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